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Posted by on ago 27, 2015 in Giro pelo Mundo, Telescópio | 1 comment

Safári Parte 3 – A busca pelo leopardo

*Série Memória a Meio Fio – Esta série são viagens mais antigas, e escrevê-las é como vivê-las novamente!

Ciganos e ciganinhos, não te conto nada mas te conto tudo sobre as últimas semanas do nosso Safári na Namíbia e Botswana!! Vimos todos os tipos de animais no Moremi Game Reserve, várias vezes, tudo!!! Menos um leopardo…Vimos até uma onça, imagina…Todo mundo já tinha visto o “tar” do leopardo, logo ali, naquela esquina, e a gente corria para esquina e nada… Mas isso não era motivo para desanimar, ainda tínhamos muito chão pela frente e tínhamos certeza que mais dia, menos dia, um grande leopardo iria cruzar na frente do nosso carro, inesperadamente, dar uma piscadinha para mim e pousar para fotos com as patas na cintura. Então continuamos, ainda não estávamos cansados não, foi realmente a viagem que mais nos marcou. Até hoje falamos sobre esses dias maravilhosos que passamos em completa comunhão com o desconhecido e inesperado. Porque você não sabe de onde vai vir o animal. A gente ficava ligado sempre, olhando por entre as árvores, arbustos, estrada. E quando ele queriam eles apareciam, imponentes, assustados, fazendo uma boquinha, com um pouco de pressa, ou tão lentos como tartarugas.

Foi em Savuti que fomos avisados de perigo por um elefante. Havíamos estudado seu comportamento, e avisei o meu marido: “Para o carro, ele vai se enfezar”. Homem, né? Nunca escuta a gente… “Imagina, tá tudo sob controle”. Tudo sob controle??? O elefante faz uma dancinha para te avisar que ele está se sentindo ameaçado, move as duas patas da frente, e bonitinho. Esse dançou logo um samba, o Marc arregalou o olho e saímos correndo!! Aí ficamos um pouco mais cautelosos, e quando os víamos parados na estrada, ou atravessando a rua com seus bebês gordinhos, esperávamos, curtíamos e, é claro, tirávamos muitas fotos!!!

Elefante em Botswana

Elefante em Botswana

Havia um animal que ainda não tínhamos visto, não estou falando do leopardo, mesmo porque o leopardo jé nem era um animal, já tinha virado uma lenda nos nossos cérebros obsessivos. Era a suricata. Em Gweta tivemos a oportunidade de visitar uma fazenda onde elas eram criadas, mas custava U$150 por pessoa, e isso não estava incluído no nosso orçamento de ciganinhos. Então resolvemos esperar para vê-los em seu ambiente natural. Quando estávamos entrando em Kasane, já no Norte da Botswana, eu estava dirigindo e vi um monte de coelhinhos atravessando a estrada, quando olho pro Marc ele está passado de alegria. Era uma turma enorme de suricatas bem na nossa frente, correndo no meio da cidade.

Em Kasane ficamos hospedados no Chobe Safari Lodge, mas na área de camping do Hotel. Nos jardins vimos mais suricatas e javalis africanos que eram criados como porquinhos-da-índia pelos funcionários do hotel. Não fizemos safári por terra no Chobe National Park, fomos por água para ver os animais de outro ângulo. O mais interessante neste cruzeiro ao por do sol foi o encontro com os búfalos, dezenas deles!!! Vimos também um elefante atravessando o rio, são grandes e delicados ao mesmo tempo. O por do sol em Botswana é uma das sete maravilhas do mundo, com certeza foi um privilégio ver a aquela bola vermelha indo para casa finalizando o dia.

África, nos te amamos!

África, nos te amamos!

Estávamos muito perto da Victoria Falls, uma viagem que todo mundo faz, e nos queríamos fazer também. Chegamos até a fronteira do Zimbabwe, mas quando chegamos lá descobrimos que tínhamos que pagar uma taxa de U$100 mais os vistos para entrar no país. Demos meia volta e resolvemos deixar para outra vez, não valia a pena para nós, por tão pouco tempo: relação custo/benefício. Não sofremos quando não podemos fazer alguma coisa, temos um lema: “não dá para ver tudo”.

Mas a Namíbia nós tínhamos que ver, custe o que custasse. Mas antes de chegar lá tínhamos mais duas paradas. Para visitar Tsodilo Hills tivemos que sair um pouco da estrada principal, mas foi muito engraçado. São quatro pequenos montes, chamados de pai, mãe, filho e norte, repletos de pinturas em rochas. A tribo San acredita que este é o lugar onde Deus criou o mundo. Parecia tudo muito misterioso, chegamos ao por do sol, jantamos, tiramos muitas fotos de todos os ângulos possíveis e fomos dormir. Não demorou muito, ciganinhos, a minha noite tragicômica começou. Vento. Mas pensa em vento forte. Nós dormindo no topo do carro. A barraca balançava, parecia que ia voar. Sofri um pouco em silêncio mas não aguentei, acordei o marido. Ele nem me deu bola, virou pro lado e dormiu, a noite inteira. Eu fiquei lá de olho arregalado até amanhecer, morta de medo de ser atirada em um dos montes, pensava que podia ser uma punição dos Deuses por nem sei o quê. Ninguém sabe o que se passa na cabeça dos Deuses, né?

Mesmo com sono, seguimos viagem para o Pan Handle do Okavango Delta. Okavango Delta é o “maior delta interno do mundo”, segundo a Wikipedia. Já tínhamos tudo marcado em um camping, inclusive um passeio de mocoro, que é uma canoa típica da região. O motorista tem um pau enorme usado para nos guiar por pequenos caminhos d’água em meio a papiros. De noite tivemos o prazer de jantar em companhia de uma coruja, meio domesticada, ela sentou nas costas da minha cadeira e ficou lá nos observando, enquanto o pão cozinhava no nosso forno à lenha improvisado. O pão queimou, mas até isso vira piada numa família de ciganinhos!

Moroco e nosso querido motorista

Moroco e nosso querido motorista

Namíbia, mais um sonho se realizando, mas devido a um pequeno erro de cálculo de minha parte, quando estava fazendo as reservas, tivemos que viajar mais de 12 horas num dia para chegar ao Etosha National Park. Imagina se eu ia perder uma noite de camping, reservada com muito suor dentro do parque. Foi um milagre a senhora nos deixar entrar e dirigir após o por do sol. Nos instalamos e descobrimos que em todos os campings dentro de Etosha existe um local com banquinhos confortáveis de onde você pode ver os animais bem de pertinho bebendo sua aguinha. Na primeira noite, apesar de muito cansados ficamos até meia noite deslumbrados observando o tráfego dos animais. Eles seguem uma ordem bastante interessante, primeiro vem as galinhas d’angola bem alegrinhas, depois as raposas sempre desconfiadas, muitos elefantes que não se cansam de tomar banho na lama e brincar com as crianças, as girafas seguem com seu passo cauteloso e suas pernas gigantescas. Você já viu girafa se abaixar para beber água? Com aquele tamanho de pescoço? Mas dá um trabalho, coitadinhas…

Sentei ao lado de um rapaz, e comentei que não havia visto um leopardo ainda. Ele pegou a máquina fotográfica poderosa dele e começou a me mostrar 355 fotos tiradas “ontem” do leopardo mais lindo do mundo bem pertinho de onde estávamos. Sorri, sorriso amarelo, e pensei: “Oh vida malvada, cadê você, leopardo?” Mas desanimar jamais, ainda tínhamos quatro dias no Etosha. Na segunda noite de observação vi uma das cenas mais inesquecíveis do safári. A briga de dois rinocerontes, com muitos sons e batidas delicadas de chifres. Foi um ballet, uma magia, um encantamento, e foi nessa noite que o meu coração bateu mais forte pelos rinocerontes. E deles jamais esquecerei.

Etosha National Park

Etosha National Park

A nossa rotina continuava a mesma, não cansávamos de passar horas observando a bicharada nas fontes de água. Num desses momentos de pura observação, de repente, as zebras, impalas, girafas, galinhas, passarinhos, saíram todos correndo, disparados, cada um para um lado, salve-se quem puder. Não entendi nada, mas de repente…O Rei Leão vinha caminhado em direção à água com sua companheira. Não precisou nem falar nada, todo mundo sabe quem é o super chefe! Mais um momento fantástico. No Etosha você encontra mais carros, e é de bom tom parar e trocar informações. Conhecemos um senhor muito simpático da África do Sul que tinha um caderninho onde ele anotava o local e dia da semana que ele via os animais. Tinha um leopardo que ia até a fonte de água do camping todas as quartas e domingos. Inacreditável. Infelizmente, ele nos deu essa valiosa informação numa quinta feira, e não podíamos esperar pelo Sr. Leopardo.

Reis da Selva

Reis da Selva

Saímos do Etosha, conformados, vimos os Grande Quatro, mas o quinto personagem da história resolveu não aparecer para gente. Seguimos viagem, com o coração meio partido, passando por Swakapmund, onde a Angelina Jolie teve seu bebê há uns anos atrás, até chegarmos no Namib-Naukluft Park onde visitamos as dunas de até 325mt em Sossusvlei. Brincamos como crianças na areia quentinha das dunas, e no segundo dia de visita acordamos cedinho para ver o nascer do sol. A vantagem de se hospedar no camping em Sesriem é que podemos ser os primeiros a chegar nas dunas de manhã. Teria sido lindo, senão tivesse nublado, mas mesmo assim subimos o máximo que as pernas aguentaram e sonhamos em ser pássaros para poder voar sobre aquele cenário de novela.

Brincando nas Dunas na Namibia

Brincando nas Dunas na Namibia

Nublado, mas quente. A Namíbia é linda, mas é bem deserta. Tem gente que ama, eu e o Marc ficamos meio cansados daquela imensidão e um belo dia, resolvemos sair correndo de lá. Ciganinhos tem de ser flexível, gente. Tínhamos seis dias antes de entregar o carro em Johannesburg. Não dava tempo para fazer a Garden Route na África do Sul. Calculamos quilômetros x tempo e decidimos: Kruger National Park!!! Fizemos 1500 km em dois dias, animadíssimos porque teríamos, enfim, a grande chance de ver o leopardo!!!

Nosso carro chamado Mickey

Nosso carro chamado Mickey

Claro, que assim que chegamos no Kruger os nossos vizinhos no camping nos falaram que haviam visto um leopardo na curva da estrada X bem pertinho do camping. Sabe quantas vezes eu passei por esta curva procurando a lenda? O Kruger é o parque mais fácil de visitar, estradas asfaltadas, locais para observação de animais, banheiros no parque. Falando em banheiros, eu estava muito acostumada anteriormente a abrir a porta do carro e seguir aquela rotina: olha, olha de novo, pede pro Marc olhar, olha embaixo do carro, cria coragem, abre a porta e faz o pipi mais rápido do mundo, volta pro carro, respira aliviada. Fiz isso no Kruger, já achava normal. Depois de menos de cinco minutos, dois guardas nos bloquearam na estrada perguntado porque eu saí do carro, tentei desconversar mas não convenceu. Eles acharam que nós éramos caçadores de chifre de rinoceronte. Aprendi a minha lição. O Kruger é primeiro mundo, use o banheiro.

Último dia no Kruger, nada de leopardo. Mas continuávamos a nossa diversão, rindo dos macacos e ouvindo os passarinhos. “Marc o que é aquilo em cima da árvore?” Era um impala pendurado, morto, que tinha sido capturado, adivinha por quem? Pelo Sr. Leopardo… Fiquei de vigia a tarde inteira enquanto o Marc dormia, porque certamente ele iria voltar para continuar o banquete. Deve ter achado coisa melhor no caminho. Não voltou.

Mas ainda não entreguei os pontos. Marquei um safári noturno, caríssimo… Tinha que acontecer. Tínhamos de ver o leopardo. Era parte da nossa história de vida. Pela primeira vez entrei naquele carrinho verde de safári, muito bonitinho, com pessoas de várias nacionalidades. Teria sido fantástico se os italianos não gritassem cada vez que aparecia um bicho. Tinha uma hiena comendo um hipopótamo morto, na beira da estrada, coisa raríssima de ser ver, mas até a hiena se assustou com a gritaria da italiana e resolveu se despedir de nós.

Ciganinhos, passei 40 dias em um safári na África. Vi milhares de criaturas magníficas vivendo em seu ambiente natural, comunguei com Deus, conhecemos pessoas da tribo Himba na Namíbia, experimentamos comidas diferentes, vimos o por do sol da Botswana, deitamos nas dunas em Sossusvlei, tive a melhor companhia do mundo: meu marido. Não tivemos um pneu furado, nenhum problema com o carro, não pegamos nem uma gripe, conhecemos pessoas boníssimas, demos gargalhadas que ainda reverberam em nossa alma. Ver leopardo para que, né?

Obrigada, logo logo volto com grandes estórias da nossa longa aventura nas Américas!

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