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Posted by on ago 17, 2015 in Giro pelo Mundo, Telescópio | 0 comments

Safári Parte 2 – A Aventura

*Série Memória a Meio Fio – Esta série são viagens mais antigas, e escrevê-las é como vivê-las novamente!

Ciganos e ciganinhos, não deixe de ler primeira parte deste artigo aqui , para  você entender como chegamos até aqui!! Esta foi a viagem mais difícil para mim em termos de planejamento e a primeira providência foi colocar os mapas da Namíbia e Botswana pendurados na parede da minha sala e olhar, olhar, estudar, estudar… Eu não tinha ideia de distância, nem do que visitar. Os roteiros já prontos de agências de viagens me ajudaram bastante, mas eles são bem rapidinhos e superficiais. O que eles fazem em duas ou três semanas nós fizemos em 40 dias!! Após sairmos correndo de Johannesburg atravessamos a fronteira em Martins’ s Drift à beira do Rio Lompopo e chegamos ao Santuário Khama Rhino, ainda a tempo de assistir a turma toda de girafas, impalas, bestas selvagens, cabras de leque, avestruzes, pássaros e rinocerontes entrando na floresta para passar a noite nas suas caminhas.

rinoceronte

Rinoceronte no Santuário Khama Rhino

Este não foi o dia que me apaixonei pelos rinocerontes, criaturas grotescas, gordas, feias, que possuem um chifre no meio da testa. Não foi no Santuário Khama Rhino que o meu coração bateu mais forte por eles, lá eu me apaixonei pelas zebras porque eram tantas!!! Cada uma usando uma roupa listradinha diferente, cada mãe protegendo o seu bebê, todos correndo em direção à água, fonte da vida. O parque é pequeno e foi estabelecido para proteger os rinocerontes brancos que estão em fase de extinção. Sao vigiados dia e noite para que os ávidos em ganhar dinheiro não os matem para roubar seus chifres.

Tínhamos a opção de seguir para a Ilha Kubu, muito visitada por vários turistinhas, mas preferimos passar a noite em Rakops à beira do rio ouvindo a sinfonia dos sapos para entrar no Central Kalahari bem cedinho no próximo dia. Apertem os cintos ciganinhos porque vamos entrar no Central Kalahari!! Eram só 44km de Rakops até o Portão Matswere, sempre em 4×4, sempre devagar, sempre com o carro afundando em montes de areia! Saímos cedo e chegamos lá era quase meio-dia!!! Entrar no Kalahari, estar no Kalahari era um grande sonho, mas será que vamos gostar de passar quatro dias em um dos lugares mais inóspitos do planeta? Tínhamos tudo preparado: lenha para a fogueira, diesel, comida e muita água!!

As cores maravilhosas do Kalahari

As cores maravilhosas do Kalahari

O nosso camping era um dos menos remotos, Deception Valley, e ainda assim ficava há mais de duas horas de viagem do Portão Matswere. Não pense que era camping tradicional. Era um espaco sem cerca, sem banheiro, sem chuveiro, sem pia para lavar a louça. Cansados após o dia inteiro de viagem e passeios (o limite dentro dos parques é de 40km/hora), armamos a nossa cama e dormimos sonhando com o amanhã… “Connie, acorda!!” “Marc, são 4:20 da manhã!” “Mas nós estamos no Kalahari!!!” Em todos os parques é proibido dirigir antes do nascer do sol e depois do por do sol. Que se dane! Vamos para a fonte de água chamada Piper, porque os leões estão lá bem cedinho. Depois de mais de duas horas de viagem, no escurinho do cinema, bem quietinhos para não sermos descobertos aconteceu…“Marc, paraaaaaaaaaaa. Eu vi um Leão.” Um pouquinho de marcha ré e lá estava o Rei e seus amiguinhos, digo, amigões! Horas e horas navegando os seus movimentos, tirando fotos, com muita vontade de ir lá e deitar junto a eles no sol quentinho da manhã. Parecem tão doces de longe… mas põe o pezinho para fora do carro para você ver!!

Não encontramos ninguém durante o tempo que estivemos no Kalahari. São 52.000km quadrados de área protegida, então tem muito lugar para os poucos que se aventuram. Já te avisei ciganinho, escolha bem a sua companhia para viagens e para a sua vida. Se o marido gosta de pescar e você gosta de tomar sol, tudo bem, dá pra ajustar. Mas se você gosta de aventuras e o companheiro gosta de passar a tarde de domingo assistindo o Faustão, sai correndo enquanto é tempo!!

Depois que nos acalmamos um pouco, passávamos horas de manhã alimentando os pássaros que vinham nos dar bom dia e horas dirigindo devagarzinho por aquela imensidão. Foi um encontro com nós mesmos, um retiro espiritual, material, um vazio repleto de paz. Tomar banho ao ar livre ao anoitecer, cozinhar com lenha à luz das lanternas, comungar com as cores do Kalahari, são momentos que passam a fazer parte de quem somos.

elefant poop

As fezes dos elefantes são muito leves

Mas se você prefere ir até o Central Kalahari de sedan, são 120km de Maun (sem chuva) e você pode se hospedar no Deception Valley Lodge, lá tem tudo que você tem em casa. Mas já sabe né? Ninguém vai te levar para ver leão no meio da noite. Vários hotéis tem “game drives” bem cedinho, mas nada comparado as loucuras que nos vivemos!

Gweta, quando nessa vida eu imaginei que iria visitar uma cidade chamada Gweta!! Gweta foi a cidade que escolhemos como base para visitar dois parques, Makhadikhadi e Nxai Pan National Park, mas para visitar parques você precisa de diesel, muito diesel e nós estávamos com o tanque quase vazio. Só que tem um problema, nem sempre tem diesel disponível em Gweta. “Ahhhh e aonde tem diesel??” Em Nata, há 100km de distância. Viajar 200 km para comprar diesel não estava no programa, mas isso é África, nem tudo está no programa, tudo e imprevisível, e é por esta falta de controle que o nosso coração bate mais forte. Tinha diesel em Nata, agora vamos aproveitar que já estamos aqui e visitar o Santuário de Pássaros e o Sowa Pan. Mas… enquanto enchíamos o tanque eu vi uma rapaz vendendo girafas esculpidas em madeira. Conversa vai, conversa vem descobri que ele era um refugiado de Zimbabwe, país tão castigado pela vontade de um ditador. Ele foi contra a ditadura, e por isso foi perseguido, atravessou a fronteira para a Botsawana à pé, com mulher e filhos pequenos, arriscando a vida, pois caminhava em floresta, casinha de leões, búfalos e seus vários outros amigos. Vivia em um campo de refugiado chamado Dukwi.

Comprei umas girafas, mas não há nada que me comova mais do que pessoas que tiveram que abandonar o seu próprio país, sua própria casa, e recomeçar como estranhos, paupérrimos, em outro país. Refugiados não tem permissão para trabalhar em Botsawana, e ele vivia da venda de suas girafas de madeira, cobertas de betume. Viajava 60km de ônibus ou de carona todos os dias para fazer ponto no posto de gasolina. “Meu filho, espera aqui, não sai daqui, estamos indo ao supermercado e vamos comprar alguma coisa para você”. A lista dele, bastante curta, virou um carrinho de supermercado cheio até a boca. Tudo que eu pegava o Marc dizia: “Pega mais dois”. E agora? Como ele vai levar isso de ônibus? Acabamos o levando em casa. Entrar em um campo de refugiados também não estava no programa, e foi muito emocionante, primeiro porque não podíamos ser vistos pela polícia, então ele nos guiou por atalhos enquanto eu tirava centenas de fotos; e segundo porque dá um pouco de medo né? Descarregamos as compras rapidamente, visitamos a sua casa de um cômodo, paramos para conhecer a sua esposa que estava trabalhando no jardim comunitário (as crianças estavam na escola) e picamos a mula, rindo, com a alma transbordando de amor e agradecimento por não sermos nós vivendo naquela situação. Tínhamos um tanque cheio de diesel, duas girafas e uma estória incrível para lembrar até o final dos nossos tempos! Que Santuário de passarinho que nada, ciganinhos tem que saber bem quais são as prioridades desta vida malvada.

Campo de refugiados Dukwi

Campo de refugiados Dukwi

Dorme, levanta, guarda a cama e corre para procurar bichinhos!! No Nxai não tivemos muita sorte em termos dos Grandes Cinco (leão, elefante, leopardo, búfalo, rinoceronte), mas vimos bastante elefantes lindos com suas famílias enormes!! Não que fosse nosso grande objetivo nessa viagem ver os Grande Cinco em 40 dias de Safári, e não estávamos obcecados com isso, por enquanto… Após horas de comunhão com pássaros e pura natureza resolvemos voltar pro camping para aproveitar a piscina (ciganinho às vezes dá sorte!).

Deus ajuda a quem madruga

Deus ajuda a quem madruga

Mas…. quando estávamos saindo do Nxai, eu estava dirigindo, vimos uma moça acenando na beira da estrada. Existem várias regras a serem seguidas quando você visita um parque. A regra básica, número 1 é: JAMAIS abandone o seu veículo, seguida por regra 2: JAMAIS se afaste mais de 100mt do seu veículo. O que aquela louca estava fazendo na beira da estrada? Sozinha? Com chapeuzinho na cabeça e mochila nas costas? Parecia que estava chegando da praia, coradinha e tudo. “Marc, será que eu paro?” Como boa brasileira já achei que podia ser assalto. “Claro que pára!!” Parei. Abri o vidro. A moça não conseguia nem falar de tão nervosa. Mandei entrar imediatamente antes que um animal a atacasse em frente aos meus olhos. Achei que o marido tinha sido atacado, estraçalhado por algum búfalo, e que ela tivesse saindo correndo, em estado de choque, em busca de ajuda. Mas não…O carro deles, Toyota Hilux (não te falei?) atolou na areia. Veio uma outra Toyota Hilux e tentou desatolar. Atolou também. Eles não tinham telefone satélite (nós tínhamos, porque este é outro procedimento básico quando nos aventuramos no meio do nada). Resultado da sessão atola atola: o casal de alemães resolveu caminhar a céu aberto, no meio do parque nacional, em direção ao portão principal. Quando os encontramos a caminhada já durava umas 3 horas. Eu não sabia se ria ou se chorava. Para completar a sessão ignorância, o marido deixou a mulher para trás porque ela estava muito cansada, e ele chegaria mais rápido ao portão sem a companhia dela (o quê???). Começamos a andar (de carro, né ciganinhos?!) e vimos o marido há mais um menos 1 km de distância. Mais um resgate. Neste ponto estávamos ainda há uns 10km de distância do portão principal, chegando lá eles explicaram para os guardas onde tinham atolado e todos riram, pois era um local onde ninguém atola. Tem que se preparar bastante para fazer uma viagem dessas, ciganinhos, sem este preparo você pode acabar como este casal de alemães, ainda vivos por pura sorte.

Marc & Connie entrando no Parque Nxai

Marc & Connie entrando no Parque Nxai

Então vamos continuando ciganinhos, porque a estrada é longa até o Moremi Game Reserve e vamos rezando para termos diesel suficiente, porque este é o trecho mais longo sem posto de gasolina!! Assim que chegamos no Moremi Game Reserve o primeiro comentário que ouvimos foi: “Nossa, ontem mesmo tinha uma família de leopardos em cima daquela árvore ali”. Ele fez questão de apontar a árvore, quase ao lado da recepção, e enfatizar que TODOS os turistas tiraram muitas fotos. “Ahhh leopardo?” E foi esse o momento que a obssessão do leopardo começou a se infiltrar em nossos cérebros…

Ciganinhos, volto logo, com mais aventuras nas selvas da Botwana e Namibia!

 

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