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Posted by on abr 22, 2015 in Giro pelo Mundo, Telescópio | 1 comment

Marrocos trocado em miúdos

Azulejos da Medersa El Attarine, em Fez

Azulejos da Medersa El Attarine, em Fez

Ciganos e ciganinhos!! Não te conto nada, mas vou te contar tudo, vou contar sobre o Marrocos, aquele país misterioso, que todo mundo quer conhecer mas morre de medo…Há 5 anos viajamos de autocaravana pela Europa, todos os anos em Setembro, quando estamos retornando para a nossa casa na belíssima Ilha da Madeira, meu marido fala: – Vamos dar um pulinho no Marrocos? Nunca quis… Queria chegar em casa logo, por causa do meu forno, sentia saudades. Imagina… que bobagem!!! Mas já me livrei deste Karma quentíssimo. Vivo e viverei sem forno para sempre!!

Em 2014 foi diferente, resolvemos dar um pulinho no Marrocos. Atravessamos o Estreito de Gibraltar de barco, com dois cachorros mas sem periquitos… O primeiro grande presente foi Chefcheouen, a Cidade Azul. Entrar numa medina sempre foi e sempre será uma grande adrenalina pra mim; é como entrar num labirinto, sem saber o que a gente vai ver na próxima esquina. São tantos sons, tantos aromas, tanta riqueza visual !!! Como Chefcheouen é fotogênica… Mas as pessoas não gostam de ser fotografadas não… Principalmente as mulheres, elas abaixam o rosto ou dão uma guinada de 180 graus para arruinar mesmo a sua fotografia. Entretanto, teve um senhor que fez questão que eu fotografasse o carneiro dele, que dava pontapés no ar, e realmente não queria ir para o abatedouro!!!

Porta decorada por um Hamsa
Porta decorada por um Hamsa

Atravessamos a cadeia de montanhas chamada RIF, e chegamos em Fez. Eu já estava dominando os perigos não existentes, e já estava me sentindo em casa. Marrocos é muito seguro. Claro que se você for para Marrakesh é tudo diferente, cidade puramente turística, e para te falar bem a verdade, apesar do Marroquino amar Marrakesh, e eu concordar que é uma cidade muito interessante, eu não sinto que possamos comparar Marrocos com Marrakesh. E diferente. O Marrocos é bem melhor, em todos os sentidos.

Fez… Lá aprendi a amar Bissara, uma sopa servida no café da manha com umas 5 colheres de azeite de oliva muito espesso e cominho. Gente, experimenta Bissara… Mas você só vai achar a verdadeira Bissara em restaurantes muito simples, essas são as melhores!! Passei 15 dias em Fez, tomei Bissara todos os dias no café da manha, mas não só… O docinho de amendoim hummmm… Aliás, a cozinha de Fez é considerada a melhor do Marrocos. A fritadinha de cebola caramelizada que eles colocam em cima do cuscuz é um sonho. Aprendi a fazer cuscuz com a cozinheira de um restaurante dentro da Medina (patrimônio mundial). Ela só falava árabe, mas a gente batia altos papos e trocava receitinhas!! Existe uma panela especial para cozinhar cuscuz, e ele deve ser cozido no vapor dos legumes.

Connie segurando a sopa Bissara, com os muros da Medina de Fez ao fundo
Connie segurando a sopa Bissara, com os muros da Medina de Fez ao fundo

Tá gostando? Ainda falta muita coisa pra contar… Foi uma viagem longa, 137 dias. Chorei quando estava chegando a hora de ir embora… Mas já me recuperei, por que cigana que se preze não fica chorando pelo leite derramado!! Neste caso pela viagem acabada…

Fizemos várias paradas no caminho de Agadir. Agadir é no litoral, e a temperatura lá é sempre agradável, então  lógico que, em pleno Novembro, inverno, foi para lá que nos dirigimos !! A gente se perde muito, e no Marrocos nos perdemos um pouco mais por que o GPS, a Vivi, ficou louca e entrou em greve, deve ser meio obsessiva por estradas europeias perfeitas… Numa das perdidinhas, fomos parar assim no meio do nada, no meio das montanhas, no fim da linha, o carro não ia mais, mas tinha um feira de legumes de rua. Quando eu fui la perguntar direções para o camping, vi umas gatas vestindo uma abaia (aquele pano preto que cobre a roupa), toda bordada a mão…Estilo Berber (Berber são os primeiros habitantes do Marrocos, pessoas maravilhosas com um coração de ouro). Depois de trocar algumas poucas palavras e muitos gestos, consegui comprar um para mim. Adoro pano. Tenho tanto pano. Mais um pano. Amo meus panos… Alguns guardo, alguns transformo… Este virou um Kaftan, aliás costureiros maravilhosos em Marrocos, trabalham rápido, é só levar o modelo e, é lógico, o pano, que eles arrasam !!

Connie vestindo uma abaia
Connie vestindo uma abaia

Em Agadir conhecemos Amlou, uma pasta feita de amêndoas tostadas, óleo de Argan e mel. O Marroquino usa o Amlou no pão, no café da manhã, eu uso na minha aveia também no café da manhã, nossa, dá um toque muito especial… Na Medina em Agadir e muito comum ver as senhoras preparando o Amlou, então, não se esqueça… pare para contemplar. Elas ficam sentadas no chão horas a fio trabalhando, quietinhas, é uma parte muito interessante da cultura do Sul do país.

Essaouira, era chamada de Mogador pelos europeus e de Seurah pelos marroquinos. Seurah significa pequena fotografia em Berber, e é essa a minha descrição de Essaouira, uma eterna fotografia !!! Caminhar pelas ruas da Medina logo pela manhã era meu passatempo favorito durante as quase duas semanas que estive lá. Nas horas de folga tomava caldo de cana e muito suco de laranja, fresquinho, docinho, feito pelo Moulay Ahmed, nosso querido vizinho. A palavra Moulay é usada para indicar um descendente do Profeta Mohammed, quando eu perguntei pro Sr. Ahmed ele me disse que era descente de uma família religiosa. Ele parecia ser bastante religioso sim, pois antes de beber o guaraná Antártica que eu ofereci ele me perguntou se tinha álcool!

Barraquinha de Suco de Laranja do Chez Moulay Ahmed Voyageur

Barraquinha de Suco de Laranja do Chez Moulay Ahmed Voyageour

O Porto de Essaouira é pura vida, cheio de ba​rquinhos azuis dançando embalados pelas canções das andorinhas. O meu restaurante favorito é o Chez Ali, bem no Porto, peixe e frutos do mar fresquinhos, um show de sabores. Não é gourmet, é simples. Servido com salada e pão.

A minha entrada favorita na Medida de Essaouira é pelo Bab (portão) Marrakesh, não que ele seja bonito como o Bab Boujeloud de Fez, mas era o caminho mais curto para a Hamman e para a padaria!! Minha rotina era perfeita, caminhada, fotografias, Hamman, pão quente (fornada das 10:30) e suco de laranja !! Já sinto saudades. ​

A Medina de Al Jadida é a menor que eu visitei, mas é Patrimônio Cultural da Humanidade, e muito famosa pelas cisternas portuguesas, onde vários filmes, incluindo Othelo, em 1952, foram gravados. Meknes não decepciona. Muitos azulejos, muitas portas decoradas, e uma Hamman muito gostosa !! Infelizmente não pudemos visitar Volubilis, uma antiga capital da Província Romana, mas é parada obrigatória para quem é apaixonado por História! Oualidia (cidade das ostras japonesas), um oásis de tranquilidade… Mohhamedia um espetáculo visual!! Até Tangier me surpreendeu, achei que era uma cidade louca, cheia de assaltantes, mas nada… super tranquila…

Não… não fui para o deserto por que morei no deserto muitos anos, e acabei de ir pra Namíbia, e também por que estava muito frio e eu sou tropical!! Mas o deserto no Marrocos é muito lindo, sim !!! Se você sonha em andar de camelo, não perca a oportunidade. Merzouga (Erg Chebbi – Erg significa dunas) na fronteira com a Algeria e muito famoso, bem como Erg Chigaga perto de M’Hamid.

O que eu mais gostei no Marrocos? As pessoas é claro! A primeira vez que alguém me devolveu dinheiro (eu confundia muito as moedas de 10 com as de 5 Dirham), eu achei meio estranho. Na décima vez que alguém me devolveu dinheiro eu ainda não acreditava em tamanha honestidade!! E, em segundo lugar, as Hammams, que são tipo banho turco. Nossa… as Hammams são um acontecimento social, aos sábados as mães levam as criancinhas, e as colocam dentro do balde enorme com água quentinha. O Savon Noir (sabão negro) é inesquecível, elas usam para massagear o corpo, por horas e horas. Gente, acho que a minha pele não aguentava, desfolava…

A chamada para a prece, Adhan, acontece 5 vezes por dia, e me encanta desde da época que eu morava em Dubai. Claro que eu não entendo o que eles estão falando, mas eu sei que de manhã o Muezzin (a pessoa que recita a Adhan) fala assim: Saia da cama e venha rezar, rezar é melhor do que dormir. A primeira Adhan acontece antes do nascer do sol, e tínhamos o maior prazer em nos hospedar perto de Mesquitas, só para ouvir a Adhan bem de pertinho, é muito melódico e espiritual.

Hospede-se numa Riad, são casas antigas transformadas em pequenos hoteis. E não se esqueça de abrir a cabeça antes de chegar lá, não é a Europa, nem tudo é limpinho, nem tudo é organizado, mas se você for com os olhos abertos somente para a beleza deste país, tenho certeza que você vai gostar tanto quanto eu !

Ficou com vontade? Tem voo direto de São Paulo a Casablanca (quando em Marrocos, nunca fale Casablanca, é cafona. O certo é Casa. Tipo: vou para Casa), ela Air Maroc. E não fica só em Marrakesh não…Alugue um carro, explore as montanhas, admira os carneirinhos subindo nas árvores de Argan, e mais importante de tudo: aprenda algumas palavrinhas em árabe. Isso transforma os marroquinos, quando eu os cumprimentava em árabe, eles abriam um sorriso largo, e parece que sentiam que eu era parte da tchurminha.

Shukran – Obrigada

Labaz? Beher? – Como vai?

Alhamdulillah – Gracas a Deus (Allah)

Allāhu akbar – Deus (Allah) e o melhor

Insha’Allah – Se Deus (Allah) quiser

Bessalama – Tchau

A língua árabe do Marrocos á especial, não é o clássico, nem o moderno​ ​falado no Golfo Pérsico e Egito. No Norte a gente consegue se virar com o espanhol tranquilamente, e no resto do país o francês é quem manda. O meu francês se desenvolveu muito nos quase cinco meses que estive lá, ou me esforçava ou não falava – o que seria a morte para uma tagarela  como eu. Nas montanhas a língua é o Berber, e como gosto muito de fotografar pessoas, expressões e cenas do dia a dia, parava sempre para bater um papinho (a língua dos sinais e imbatível nestes casos). Quando estávamos percorrendo um roteiro nas Montanhas Atlas para ver as amendoeiras em flor, parei para observar duas senhoras carregando enormes cestos de palha nas costas. Uma veio falar comigo. Me pediu “bumbum”: –  Hummmm Bumbum??? Não pude ajudá-la. Passei dias perguntando para pessoas locais o que seria bumbum na língua Berber​ até que um dia descobri !!! Bombom ciganinhos, ela queria um chocolate !! Achei tão singelo, ela não pediu dinheiro, nem carona, nem comida. Só queria um chocolate para adoçar a sua vida.

Não precisa pegar guia pra visitar uma medina, entra com tudo, sem mapa, sem lenço nem documento e sai explorando, é a forma mais interessante de ver o dia a dia dos marroquinos. É lindo ver as donas de casa levando o pão que amassaram em casa na paderia para cozer. As crianças vão ao mercadinho sozinhas, criancinha, tipo 3 anos. E claro, compram muito óleo de Argan, tem cosmético e culinário, o culinário só tem validade de 4 meses. Bom, eu não sabia, comprei 4 litros, agora estou distribuindo pela vizinhança !!!

Bessalama ciganinhos, até a próxima parada! Insha’Allah…

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