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Posted by on jun 25, 2015 in Giro pelo Mundo | 1 comment

Safari – Parte 1

* Série Memória a Meio Fio – Esta série são viagens mais antigas, e escrevê-las é como vivê-las novamente!

Ciganos e ciganinhos, não te conto nada, mas te conto tudo! Passamos seis semanas dormindo logo após o por do sol e acordando antes dele nascer. Por quê? Porque quando em Roma… mas não estávamos em Roma não, estávamos fazendo um safári, sozinhos, na Namíbia e Botswana. Dizem que um safári é uma viagem de sonhos e uma experiência única na vida, e estão todos certos. É uma viagem inesquecível, que deixa o coração da gente marcado para sempre.

liberdade

Realizando sonhos

O primeiro passo é escolher o carro, não alugue uma Toyota Hilux (cansamos de vê-los atolados na areia), ou um carro que não seja 4×4 (estes, realmente, não sei como sobreviveram). Precisa 4×4 se você quiser se divertir pra valer, entrar em cada buraquinho dos parques nacionais. Falou em 4×4 falou em Toyota Land Cruiser. Este é o carro. Claro, se você quiser dirigir, senão vai de excursão, sentadinho naqueles jeeps de safári, sabe? Mas aviso que os jeeps não ficam parados por horas, como nós ficávamos, esperando aquele momento mágico que o leão beija a leoa… Adoro beijo. Vimos beijos de zebra também. Os animais são muito gentis com os seus amigos, ao contrário de vários seres humanos que andam por aí.

beijo

O beijo das Zebras

Vai alugar o seu Toyota Land Cruiser onde? Após horas de pesquisas, nós escolhemos a Bushlore, e eles não decepcionaram. Atendimento perfeito do início ao fim, carro perfeito também. Nosso carro era relativamente novo, com uma barraca em cima, chamada roéof top tent.  Não vai querer levar uma barraquinha comum pra dormir a céu aberto no meio da alcova dos leões, né? Claro que se você tiver aquele cartão de credito Gold (não é o nosso caso) você pode ficar nos resorts mais maravilhosos do mundo e acordar com a girafa te espiando pela janela. O carro também tinha uma área de cozinha e um mini freezer poderoso que chegava a congelar nossas bebidinhas refrescantes. Tínhamos dois fogareiros, mas cozinhamos com lenha na fogueira, a maioria das refeições, muito mais romântico… Romântico tipo rápido, porque como fazíamos só uma refeição quente, no final do dia, eu queria subir rapidinho para o conforto de minha caminha, fechar todos os zíperes bem fechadinhos e dormir tranquila, mesmo porque geralmente estávamos exaustos.

Outro fator básico é que você saiba dirigir um carro 4×4, principalmente na areia macia e profunda (melhor não fazer um safári na época de chuvas, ciganinhos). Muita adrenalina, mas requer habilidade. Essa lição eu tive em Dubai, depois que fiquei atolada com um carro 4×4 na porta da Universidade, ai que vergonha!!!!

Marc ajustando a lenha em cima do carro

Marc ajustando a lenha em cima do carro

Quando morávamos na Etiópia fizemos uma viagem para visitar as tribos remotas no sul do país. Tínhamos uma Land Cruiser, e adaptamos o carro para a viagem. Quando estávamos no meio do nada, literalmente abrindo estradas na floresta, o Marc me perguntou: “E se o GPS estragar?” Me deu um frio na barriga, e desde então temos três GPSs. Mas não confie somente no GPS, ele às vezes te engana, então para esta viagem compramos mapas dos dois países, e guia de viagem também. Compramos tudo da Tracks for Africa, mas hoje em dia teria comprado os guias da Rough Guides. Mas tem vários guias bacanas, compre o que você preferir. Levamos guias pesados, mas não vá pensando que pode levar a roupa que quiser não…

Esta parte eu adorei: montar o guarda roupa da viagem!! Uma vez na vida, então vamos caprichar, tudo com motivos de oncinhas, zebrinhas, chapéu verde, calça verde, camiseta verde!! Vermelho, branco, amarelo canarinho e verde passarinho são cores proibidas em safári. Você assusta o animal, e ele sai correndo, talvez na sua direção. Mas mesmo que você fique em resorts de luxo, lembre-se que os aviões que voam para os parques nacionais são minúsculos, e não aceitam bagagem pesada.

A grande surpresa aconteceu quando comecei a marcar os parques que iríamos ficar na Namíbia e Botswana. São todos muito organizados, com sites e e-mails. Enviei vários emails uma noite, três meses antes da viagem, com as datas exatas que gostaria de utilizar o camping. No próximo dia acordei, abri meus emails, e a resposta que eu recebi, da grande maioria, é que estavam todos lotados. Sentei, quase chorei, não contei nada pro Marc, e pensei em desistir da viagem. Mas aí lembrei que tenho sangue cigano e que nada iria arruinar a minha viagem de sonhos. Peguei o telefone e comecei a ligar. Deu tudo certo!! Tive que alterar algumas datas, e no Parque Nacional Etosha na Namíbia não consegui vaga em um dos campings. Então, reserve a sua estada com pelo menos seis meses de antecedência. Se for na época de férias escolares, um ano e pouco!

Tínhamos galões extras de diesel em cima do carro, é importante calcular a quilometragem para saber se vai ter posto para reabastecimento no meio do caminho. As estradas são, na sua grande maioria,  repletas de vacas, mulas, cachorros, pessoas, crianças, e buracos… Então não pense que você faz 200 km em 2 horas. Nem que a vaca da estrada esteja tossindo. Pode demorar entre 6 à 8hs, se você tiver sorte. Então, mais uma vez, vale a pena ir devagar. A sua vida já está correndo, na sua frente, acabando a cada dia, então escolha uns momentos pra ir bem devagar, tipo tartaruga sabe?

O melhor período para visitar estes países é de maio a setembro. Um casal suíço nos deu uma boa descrição do tempo, saía do Sul da África antes de novembro. Nós fomos em setembro/outubro, antes das chuvas, porque dizem que os animais estão mais concentrados nos poucos lugares que tem água.

Eu tinha dois grandes medos: um era que a hiena comesse meu pé, que não pode ficar para fora da barraca de jeito nenhum. Eu me certificava todas as noites que a barraca estava bem fechada. Imagina… não é bobagem não. Elas comem o pé, a mãozinha, tudo que você deixar para fora da barraca. Fique atento. E o segundo medo era como é que eu ia descer da barraca de noite pra fazer xixi? A minha amiga Camila sugeriu que eu levasse uma bacia pra cima, nem cogitei esta ideia. Então, desenvolvi um plano. Acorda. Segura o xixi. Não dorme. Ainda acordada. Acorda o marido. Marido segura a lanterna. Eu seguro outra lanterna e faço uma pesquisa de campo. Desço um degrau. Marido dorme sentado. Desço mais um degrau. Acorda o marido. Chega lá embaixo. Faz o xixi mais rápido do mundo. Sobe correndo. Fecha o zíper da barraca bem fechadinho com a certeza que o pé está bem para dentro. Respira aliviada. Acho que meu plano funcionou. Ainda estou viva. Não pode levar biscoitinhos e frutinhas para a barraca para fazer um lanche à meia noite, ciganinhos, isso atrai os animais. Aliás até durante o dia carregávamos toda a comida dentro da geladeira, ou bem fechada na parte de trás do carro.

roof top tent

Nosso carro com a cama montada

A gente tomava banho sim viu? Somos ciganinhos, mas somos limpinhos! A maioria dos campings tinha área de chuveiros, área para lavar louça, muitos tinham piscina e restaurante. Mas os banhos mais maravilhosos que tomamos foram ao ar livre, com o vento da mama África batendo no nosso rosto. Um dos mais memoráveis foi no Kalahari onde os campings são bastante rudimentares (estou sendo gentil, não tinha nem água).

Foram muitos parques, mas antes de começar a viagem propriamente dita, resolvemos ficar uma noite em Johanesburg pra nos recuperar da viagem de chegada em um Lodge chamado Ipe Tombe. Esta foi uma decisão acertadíssima. Os donos da Ipe Tombe nos encheram de amor, dicas e a comida da Pat é fantástica!! Foi bom dormir naquela cama macia e quentinha antes de começar tamanha aventura.  A Ipe Tombe fica em um condomínio fechado, tipo uma pequena hípica, e nem parecia que a gente estava ao lado de uma cidade tão grande como Johannesburg. A Bushlore foi nos buscar no hotel para nos entregar o carro, e partimos!!! mas não sem antes de passar em um supermercado. Não via a hora de começar a usar o meu binóculo, mas ter binóculo e não saber como os animais se comportam não vai te adiantar de nada. Então ciganinhos, estudem um pouco sobre o comportamento dos animais, o que não fazer para irritá-los, onde encontrá-los, a que horas. Não é uma viagem de compras para Miami onde você sabe o horário que a loja abre e fecha. É um exercício diário de paciência, os bichos não ficam lá sentados na beira da estrada te esperando para dar adeuzinho, eles estão na casa deles e correm livres para onde tem vontade. Mas se você não está com tempo, tem sempre o zoológico. Lá você pode ter a certeza que vai encontrar todo mundo te esperando, enjaulados e tristes.

leao

O Rei da Selva fazendo graça

Nossa rotina geralmente era acordar antes do por do sol, tomar o café e o Nescau que eu já tinha deixado no freezer na noite anterior, e dirigir para a fonte de água mais próxima. Os animais são como nós, eles acordam de manhã, tem sede e vão beber água. Os leões que passaram a noite inteira caçando e se alimentando, passam o dia meio estirados como lagartos perto dessas fontes de água, tomando um golinho de vez em quando. Depois passávamos o dia dirigindo a esmo dentro dos parques, um dia passamos quase 6 horas sem ver nenhum animal, mas, de repente, no final da tarde veio à explosão de sons e alegria de zebras, impalas, elefantes!!! Os rinocerontes são mais tímidos, mas isso eu te conto outra hora ciganinho…

A nossa próxima parada é o Santuário Khama Rhino!! Até já!!

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