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Posted by on ago 4, 2015 in Giro pelo Mundo | 2 comments

O Cante Floreado e o Pastel de Nata do Zé Manel

Do Alentejo a Beira Interior

Ciganos e ciganinhos, não te conto nada mas te conto tudo sobre uma viagem divertida por duas regiões de Portugal, Beira Interior e Alentejo. A minha família é originária da Beira Interior, de uma vila chamada Paranhos da Beira, e é um grande prazer dividir com vocês um pouco das peculiaridades dessa região. Somos apaixonados pela comida do Alentejo desde que visitamos o restaurante Casa do Alentejo em Lisboa, há muitos anos atrás.

Todos vocês conhecem monumentos que são considerados Patrimônio Mundial pela UNESCO, certo? Mas e do Patrimônio Cultural Imaterial da Humanidade vocês já ouviram falar? Aqui você encontra uma lista bastante completa de todos os gêneros de música, poesia, dança, rituais, espaços culturais e muitos mais tesouros que encontramos por este mundo afora. Em Novembro de 2014 o Cante Alentejano passou a ser considerado Patrimônio Cultural Imaterial da Humanidade.

cante

Cante Alentejano

Conversando com moradores de Beja, no Baixo Alentejo, onde o Cante Alentejo supostamente se originou, tentei descobrir desde quando existe este Cante. A resposta de todos foi: “Desde sempre…”

Imagina-se que exista uma influência da música gregoriana cantada nos conventos do Baixo Alentejo, mas sabe-se ao certo que o Cante Alentejo era cantado nos campos, durante a colheita por homens e mulheres. Trabalhar com música dá um ânimo na pessoa não é mesmo? Houve um período em que os homens diziam que o Cante era propriedade masculina, mas as mulheres não deixaram que essa lenda fosse adiante. Muitos moradores na faixa dos 70 anos lembram-se das mulheres cantantes passando pelo centro da cidade à noite a caminho da colheita do grão de bico.

Tive o prazer de ouvir o Grupo Coral de Beja, antigo Bubedanas, se apresentando na Praça Municipal de Beja. O emocionante Cante Alentejano é acompanhado pela Viola Campaniça, antiga Viola de Beja. O nome Viola de Beja não atraía muitos admiradores. Viola Campaniça é bem mais sofisticado, não é? Mas existe uma explicação para o novo nome, é que a Viola Campaniça era usada no Campo Branco, na zona de Castro Verde. Campo… Campaniça…

São 18 corais na região de Beja, e em alguns grupos como o Grupo Coral de Baleizao (masculino) e o Grupo Coral Feminino Terras de Catarina podemos encontrar membros de uma mesma família.

Celebrando a Revolução de 25 de Abril

Celebrando a Revolução de 25 de Abril

Coincidentemente eu estava em Beja na celebração do Aniversário da Revolução de 25 de Abril de 1974, também conhecida como Revolução dos Cravos. Todo português que se preza tem um cravo vermelho na lapela neste dia tão importante para a nação. Conta-se que um funcionário de um restaurante em meio a revolução começou a distribuir cravos vermelhos para a população. E também conta-se que um garoto colocou um cravo na ponta da espingarda de um soldado. Como a Revolução aconteceu há 41 anos, a memória deste dia ainda é muito viva! A Catarina Eufémia que nasceu em Baleizao e deu nome a um dos grupos de coral foi uma heroína nacional e sua história simboliza a grande opressão que se viveu neste país.

Bonita e triste a estória da Catarina, não é? E o Cante Alentejano também é bonito? Ouça-o, e preste atenção no seu extraordinário floreado (diferentes entonações). Concordo, não é o estilo da grande maioria das pessoas, mas se você aprecia música, no geral, vale a pena tentar.

E se você não gostar do Cante Alentejano, dá uma passadinha em Cuba, que é bem pertinho. Meu marido realizou um grade sonho!

cuba (2)

Um Americano em Cuba

Falou de Portugal a gente lembra de bacalhau e tapete arraiolo! A cidade de Arraiolo fica no Alentejo, pena que quando estive lá era domingo, e os arraiolos estavam de folga. Mas nem tudo foi perdido, descobrimos o Castelo dos Arraiolos, um dos únicos castelos circulares do mundo e ficamos brincando de dar voltinhas de carro dentro do castelo! Isso é muito raro, foi a primeira vez que pudemos entrar num castelo de carro! Cigano acha graça nas pequenas coisas, parece criança!!

arraiolos (1)

Castelo em Arraiolos

E por falar em castelo, o Castelo de Marvao dentro do Parque Nacional da Serra de São Mamede é deslumbrante. É  uma vila medieval cercada por muros e o castelo fica a 850mt de altitude. Dentro do parque você também pode visitar as Ruínas Romanas de Ammaia e mais dois castelos, Alegrete e Vide. É um local indicado para fazer caminhadas também, mas prepare-se para subir subir subir….

castelo (1)

Janela no Castelo de Marvao

Nós só demos uma passadinha pelo Alentejo nesta viagem, não somos ciganinhos desocupados, temos muito compromissos e às vezes não podemos curtir tanto uma região quanto gostaríamos. Já estivemos em Evora em outra oportunidade, a Cidade Museu, Patrimônio Histórico que era chamada Ebora Liberalitas Iulia pelos romanos. Particularmente, acho que Evora merece pelo menos três dias. Você pode explorar mais do Alentejo aqui. O que eu mais gosto do Alentejo? As migas… São vários tipos, a minha favorita é a de aspargos. A Migas a Alentejana e servida com carne de porco, e tudo depende da criatividade do chefe, é uma prato a base de pão, com temperos simples, mas com um sabor inesquecível. Ainda melhor se acompanhada com o famoso vinho Alentejano!

A Serra da Gardunha, onde paramos para encher nossos recipientes com água muito fresquinha e saborosa da serra, oferece 10 percursos sinalizados para caminhadas. A Rota da Cereja inicia-se em Alcongosta, um pouco antes de Fundão, e se você estiver lá no verão nem precisa levar lanchinho. Portugal produz cerejas saborosíssimas !!! Já na primavera alimente a sua alma com a beleza das cerejeiras em flor! A região de Alcongosta produz mais de duas mil toneladas de vinte variedades de cereja por ano.

Em Alcongosta você pode se hospedar nos iglus geodésicos no Natura Glamping (+351938387600), com uma vista inigualável da Cova da Beira e da Serra da Estrela, o coração da Beira Interior!

Ao leste de Castelo Branco está o Parque Natural do Tejo Internacional, mas nós vamos continuar em direção ao norte, e entrar na Serra da Estrela pela Covilhã. Outra opção é subir mais alguns quilômetros pelo Rio Zézere, passar por Belmonte e seguir em direção a Manteigas. Eu entro pela Covilhã porque vou a Seia ver a família e comer o doce que eu mais gosto em Portugal, o pastel de nata. Claro que ninguém precisa ir tão longe para comer pastel de nata, mas o pastel de nata do ZÉ MANEL FABRICO PRÓPRIO, é considerado por toda a minha família, o melhor do mundo!!!

pastel de nata (1)

Pastel de Nata do Zé Manel

Quando atravesso a Serra da Estrela sempre paro numa das várias lojinhas para perguntar quem ganhou o concurso de melhor Queijo da Serra no último ano e compro um para experimentar. É uma grande concorrência! Aliás, enquanto estamos nessa região nos deliciamos no Queijo da Serra, considerados por muitos o melhor do mundo. E com certeza, o melhor do meu mundo!!

Se você estiver na Serra da Estrela no inverno aproveite para deitar e rolar na neve (me dá frio só em pensar…) e esquiar !! E a única estação de esqui em Portugal !!

Na Beira Litoral você encontra umas das comidas mais interessantes que eu conheço em Portugal, chama-se Chanfana. A Capital Universal da Chanfana e Vila Nova de Poiares, como a gastronomia de Portugal e diversa! A Chanfana de antigamente era feita com carne de cabra velha, ficava cozinhando por horas e horas, e era servida em grandes festas, uma iguaria. Hoje em dia já é feita com carne de cabra “boa”, e o tempero é simples, vinho tinto, banha de porco, colorau, louro, alho e o famoso piri piri! O segredo do sabor da Chanfana é o tipo de recipiente em que ela é feita, que não tem nome especial mas é fabricada de uma forma especial. É uma panela de barro cozida em muito “fumo”, isto faz com que a panela seja negra, por dentro e por fora. A Chanfana original é cozida no forno a lenha. A Chanfana é tão importante culturalmente que existe a Confraria da Chanfana, os confrades vestem-se com um manto negro, um chapéu que é uma réplica dos usados pelas pessoas simples do campo e o medalhão possui a forma do forno a lenha onde a Chanfana é assada.

Ciganinhos, ta achando que é só isso? Engano seu… Não perca a Judiaria e a maravilhosa Sé da Catedral na Guarda. As pontes romanas e castelos medievais da Rota das Aldeias Históricas (são 12 aldeias, e o percurso é circular!). Canyoning no Rio Teixeira! Em Viseu hospede-se no Palácio dos Melos, onde viveu o Infante D. Henrique.

Adeusinho ciganinho, estou arrumando as malas para começar uma aventura longa e diferente, e é claro que vou dividi-la com você !!

 

2 Comentários

  1. Fico feliz em saber que minhas palavras te transportaram para as ruas e canções do Alentejo 🙂

  2. Gostei demais do teu relato, Connie. Tive a oportunidade de passar um 25 de abril em Évora, fazendo pesquisas para um livro meu, que tem uns capítulos sediados em Viana do Alentejo. Foi um sonho ouvir o cante na véspera das comemorações na Praça do Giraldo ao som de “Grândola, vila morena” cantado pela multidão. No dia seguinte, na praça da Biblioteca de Alcáçovas, assisti ao desfile dos corais da região no palco e, à noite, numa tasca, à cantoria dos rapazes – na maioria pastores – brincando com o cante. Volto lá, ainda, e quero expandir a minha exploração do Alentejo.

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