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Posted by on maio 3, 2015 in Marcas, Moda | 1 comment

Sapatos, um amor de longa data

scarpin-alto-4008485_33

A Moda sempre refletiu a história, ou seja, a forma como um determinado povo vive em determinada época. O clima, a economia, a ocupação e até mesmo a posição que a pessoa ocupa dentro da sociedade sempre influenciaram a forma de se vestir dos seres humanos desde a Pré-história.

“Moda não é simples vestimenta. Ela é o signo das formas de expressão que se mostram também em outros domínios. Como parte das funções humanas, os povos desenvolveram também a arte, a literatura, a religião e o direito. Todo homem, selvagem ou civilizado, possui uma alma coletiva na qual repousam todas as formas de arte, recebendo influências também da cultura de outros povos, que se reflete no modo de vestir.”  Marie Louise Nery

A Pré-história é o extenso período que antecede o aparecimento da escrita e do uso dos metais. Segundo evidências, o sapato existe desde 10.000 a.C., quando foram encontradas as primeiras representações do que seriam sapatos em pinturas rupestres localizadas na Espanha e sul de França, na era da pedra lascada.

sandalia_pre_historia

8000 a.C. par de sapatos de nativos Norte Americanos

Na era glacial, os habitantes da Europa, foram obrigados a cobrir os corpos com pele para se protegerem do frio intenso, os trogloditas das cavernas usavam roupas de pele, após caçarem os animais para alimento, tiravam-lhe o couro, aprenderam a curti-lo, tornando-o maleável para depois poder cortá-lo e moldá-lo ao corpo. Os primeiros “calçados” eram couro ou pele enrolados nos pés e amarrados com os tendões dos animais ou cordões de fibras vegetais através de pequenos furos que os homens faziam usando espinhos, ossos ou pedras perfuradas: o rudimento da costura! Desde muito cedo o homem aprendeu a trabalhar o couro.

As sandálias dos egípcios eram feitas de palha, papiro ou de fibra de palmeira. Na  Mesopotâmia eram comuns sapatos de couro cru amarrados aos pés por tiras do mesmo material. Em Roma o calçado indicava a classe social: os cônsules usavam sapato branco, os senadores sapatos marrons (presos por quatro fitas pretas de couro atadas a dois nós) e o calçado tradicional das legiões era a bota de cano curto que descobria os dedos.

A padronização da numeração é de origem inglesa, o  rei  Eduardo (1272-1307) uniformizou as medidas. A primeira referência conhecida da manufatura do calçado na Inglaterra é de 1642, quando Thomas Pendleton  forneceu 4.000 pares de sapatos e 600 pares de botas para o exército. Em meados do século 19 começam a surgir as  máquinas para auxiliar na confecção dos calçados e a partir de 1940 grandes mudanças começam a acontecer nas indústrias calçadistas: a troca do couro pela borracha e a introdução de materiais sintéticos na produção em larga escala.

Presume-se que a palavra sapato tenha origem no turco zabata.  No francês, é soulier;  sapato (português), zapato (espanhol), sabata (catalão), ciabatta (italiano). E a palavra calçado; do latim Calceus, com o mesmo significado, e este igualmente do latim, calx, calcanhar.

sandalia-alto-4009311_3

Uma grande quantidade de mulheres é apaixonada por sapatos. Várias teorias tentam explicar esse amor, essa paixão e até obsessão das mulheres por um dos maiores objetos de desejo feminino. Pensando nisso tenho absoluta certeza de que uma empresa que produz calçados deve ter um respeito imenso por nós mulheres, grandes consumidoras do produto. Hoje desejamos não só beleza e design, mas também durabilidade e conforto, qualidade e confiança; a nossa relação com as marcas que usamos vai além da funcionalidade do objeto, como proteger, encobrir ou enfeitar.

Para entender melhor sobre seu sapato, veja esse material da Capodarte que é um raio X de uma sandália meia pata.

Partes do calçado

Cabedal: Parte superior do calçado que cobre e protege o pé. Divide-se em gáspea (parte da frente) e traseiro (parte lateral e de trás do calçado).

Gáspea: Parte frontal do cabedal do sapato. Compreende a porção que cobre desde os dedos até o peito do pé.

Couraça: Reforço colocado no bico do sapato e fica escondido sob o material externo do cabedal e o forro.

Contraforte: Reforço colocado entre o cabedal traseiro e o forro, na região do calcanhar.

Solado: Conjunto de peças que formam a parte inferior do calçado.

Palmilha de montagem: Lâmina feita geralmente à base de celulose ou couro, do mesmo tamanho da planta da forma.

Alma: Peça posicionada no centro da palmilha, que serve para dar firmeza no caminhar e sustentar a planta do pé.

Palmilha de acabamento: Material que recobre o sapato internamente. Fica sobre a palmilha de montagem e a alma.

Sola: Parte externa inferior do solado, que está em contato direto com o chão.

Salto: Suporte fixado à sola na região do calcanhar e destinado a dar equilíbrio ao calçado.

Entressola: Camada intermediária colocada entre a palmilha de montagem e a sola.

Vira: Tira colada ou costurada em torno do sapato, sobre a beirada da sola como acabamento.

IMG_2069

Existe também uma linguagem própria, como mostramos na tabela acima, para que possamos identificar os materiais que compõem cada parte de nosso calçado. Desde tempos remotos até os dias atuais o couro ainda é a matéria-prima mais nobre para a fabricação de calçados, conferindo beleza, durabilidade e qualidade. A parte interna dos calçados muitas vezes também é de couro, como a sapatilha Catherine, cuja palmilha em couro puro facilita a transpiração evitando fungos e bactérias. O solado em couro geralmente é utilizado em calçados mais requintados ou sociais, o solado tratorado em borracha que é uma tendência desta estação está presente em alguns calçados da coleção da Capodarte Fatto a Mano do Inverno 2015.

Devido a tecnologia empregada hoje muitas texturas são conseguidas a partir de prensas, crocodilo, cobra, estampas em baixo relevo entre outras.

couro brasão prensado

Brasão prensado no couro, carteira preta em couro texturizado e carteira com logo prensada no couro

couro quadrado

No detalhe, couro texturizado sobre jacquard

logo prensada

Logo prensada no couro

Publieditorial Capodarte4

* Esta matéria é patrocinada pela Capodarte Joinville.

Capodarte Joinville: 
Garten Shopping Joinville
Rua Rolf Wiest, 333 – Bom Retiro 
Joinville , SC
Fone: 3043-9081

 

Referências bibliográficas:

NERY, Marie Louise. A evolução da indumentária: subsídios para criação de figurino. Rio de Janeiro: Ed. Senac Nacional, 2003.

LEVENTON, Melissa (Org.). História Ilustrada do Vestuário. São Paulo: Publifolha, 2009.

Sites consultados:

Capodarte> http://www.capodarte.com.br/

Site do Sapato > http://www.sapatosite.com.br/

Calçado Esportivo > http://calcadodesportivo.com/

 

 

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