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Posted by on dez 18, 2011 in Arte, Cinema, Moda | 0 comments

Chanel, polêmica até os dias atuais

Como trabalho com livros e leio muitos, inclusive porque faz parte da profissão, lembrei de falar de alguns lançamentos que falam da nossa querida Coco Chanel. Sou fã de Chanel bem antes de estudar moda, trabalhar com figurino ou blogar, pelo simples fato de ter sido sempre à frente de seu tempo. Ah, sim, ela faz aniversário um dia antes de mim, 19 de agosto, é leonina, elegante, eterna, talentosíssima, influenciou como ninguém a forma da mulher se vestir  e…é Chanel!
Pois bem, este ano, aterrisaram nas livrarias três biografias distintas sobre a estilista: 

Todos com revelações bombásticas sobre a vida de uma das maiores estilistas da história, menina pobre que cresceu em um orfanato e que mudou, para sempre, a forma de olhar e interpretar o ato de se vestir. Livrou a mulher dos espartilhos e reforçou o desejo de ser feminina, mas dona de seu próprio nariz, Gabrielle sempre foi única. O primeiro livro, de Lisa Chaney, aponta os vários casos amorosos de Chanel com homens e mulheres, inclusive com Salvador Dalí, um dos meus pintores favoritos! e, segundo contam, voyeur de carteirinha, estimulava Gala, sua esposa, a manter vários casos extra-conjugais. Outro amante famoso segundo a escritora seria o também pintor, Pablo Picasso. 
O segundo livro, Dormindo com o inimigo – a guerra secreta de Coco Chanel, do jornalista Hal Vaughan, talvez seja o mais fundamentado, o livro é resultado de vasta e minuciosa pesquisa documental e raro material fotográfico.Vaughan estava pesquisando para escrever um livro sobre H. Gregory Thomas, um espião americano e acabou descobrindo que Thomas fora a Paris para roubar a fórmula secreta do Chanel n 5. Ficou intrigado e pesquisando mais nos arquivos descobriu um documento onde a polícia francesa acusava Chanel de trabalhar no serviço secreto alemão. Passou a investigar mais a fundo e resolveu escrever sobre a estilista, para tanto, contratou assistentes para ajudá-lo na coleta de informações, em vários países  como Inglaterra, Alemanha, Polônia, Itália e gastou uma pequena fortuna com isso.
Segundo Vaughan, durante a ocupação alemã da França, Coco Chanel teria trabalhado e tido caso com oficiais da Gestapo, inclusive Hans Günther von Dincklage, e que tal comportamento apenas refletia a necessidade de sobrevivência de si mesma e de sua marca, já que muitos acreditavam que a vitória seria de Adolf Hitler. O livro relata a infância pobre, o processo de evolução da Maison na década de 20 que, já à época, empregava mais de 2 mil costureiras e foca o período em que Chanel vai viver no Hotel Ritz com Dincklage e os anos do começo da Segunda Guerra até por volta de 1954. 
Por fim, o Chanel n 5 – A História Íntima do Perfume mais Famoso do Mundo, de Tilar J. Mazzeo, historiadora cultural. O livro traz a trajetória da fragrância sinônimo de sensualidade e sofisticação, endeusada por icones como Marilyn que dormia vestindo apenas 3 gotinhas do perfume e mais nada!, separa a realidade e a lenda na criação do perfume até hoje permanente na seleta galeria de objetos de desejo da indústria do luxo. Tilar mostra como entender o processo de como o Rallet n 1, perfume preferido entre a dinastia Romanov, desapearcido com a Russi Imperial, transformar-se das mãos de seu criador o perfumista Ernest Beaux no notório Chanel n 5 conhecido como é até os dias atuais: sexy e provocante e, ao mesmo tempo, feminino e sofisticado. 
Também narra sua relação com o oficial alemão, Dincklage e como seu perfume foi vendido livremente na França durante o Terceiro Reich, numa época em que todos os produtos eram proibidos de serem comercializados. O tino comercial de Chanel contribuiu muitíssimo para o sucesso da fragrância, até hoje há um desejo coletivo de possuir seu frasco. Para se ter uma ideia, a cada 30 segundos é vendido um frasco do perfume em algum lugar do mundo.
Quer mais Chanel? Que tal o filme com a querida Audrey Tatou no papel de Coco? Assista Coco antes de Chanel ou ainda Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky, compositor russo exilado na França pela Revolução Russa que teve um relacionamento amoroso com Coco. Leia sobre a crítica aqui, adorei o texto. Também tem a peça de Maria Adelaide do Amaral que ganhou vida no corpo da atriz Marília Pera, com figurino original cedido pela Maison Chanel e que tive o prazer de assistir no teatro da FAAP, em 2004. 
Enfim, Chanel é eterna e o Kaiser Karl Lagerfeld mantêm a Maison sempre nas alturas! Answer Questions

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